Garment



W. CAPLIN GARMENT Filed May 9 19 I 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 i Fl G. 2

IN VEN TOR.

h Z/LL/AM Ce L W Nov. 1, 1949. W. CAPLINY 2,486,553

GARMENT Filed May 9, 1946 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR. h/ M/AM C/IPL/N19/5 T'O/QNEV Patented Nov. 1, 1949 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE GARMENTWilliam Caplin, New York, N. Y., assignor to Seamprufe Incorporated, NewYork, N. Y., a

corporation of New York Application May 9, 1946, Serial No. 668,343

4 Claims. (01. 2-73)- stantial elasticity for applying and removing thegarment, the lack of any tendency to sag, an attractive seam pattern,simplicity and economy of manufacture, adaptability to different figuresand styles, and in general durable sales appeal.

In the absence in the garment of any materials other than the usualwoven fabrics, and of any special fastenings 'or other complicatedaccessories, which play no part in this invention, there are certaindefinite main factors which together determine the behaviour of articlesof this class, to wit: The number and shape of the component parts; thecut, that is, the direction of the threads of the goods in relationfirst to the direction of the main elastic stresses in the goods, andsecondly to that of the seams; and the geometric pattern formed by theseams.

Certain consideration should be ofiered here to bring into sharp focusthe nature of the invention, its objects, and the mode of its operation.The cut of a piece (bias or straight) determines whether the 'piecebehaves as a substantially elastic one or not. The elasticity of abias-cut piece, however, can be hindered or even nullified by animproperly positioned seam. It is also well known in the art that, whenbiascut pieces are properly joined to straight-cut pieces, not only dothey display their fullest elasticity, but also they form seams whichwill not rip.

The loads on a garment Of this class fall into three main categories:Vertical loads, due to the weight of the fabric; circumferential loads,due to the stretching of the fabric in places to conform closely totheoutline of the body; and mixed loads, which arise from the wearerssitting, bending and in general assuming positions different from thestanding. All of these loads produce stresses which are transmittedpartially unchanged through the straight-cut panels, induce deformationsin the bias-cut panels, which deformations in turn generate secondarystresses, and finally run along the seams balancing each other at thenodal points or points of junction of several seams, according to thelaws of vec-- torial composition.

Whether those elastic stresses act to improve or mar the fit andappearance of the garment,

depends on the structure of this latter, and precisely on the three mainfactors defined hereinbefore. Many efforts have been made along theselines in the prior art, but they have achieved at best onl partialsuccess. My invention, however, provides a garment structure whereinloads and stresses are so manipulated,

and channelled as to achieve the maximum beneficial effect thereof. Theresult is a garment simple and economical but more attractive,comfortable, and durable than any hitherto known.

It is the general object of this invention to provide a garment of thecharacter described which has an improved fit and is especiallyflattering to the figure 0f the wearer.

It is also an object of this invention to provide a garment of thecharacter described, wherein the fit is obtained through a novel andimproved distribution of the stresses and deformations among the variouscomponent pieces, said stresses and deformation being transmittedthrough the suitably inter-related elements of a web of seams.

Other related and ancillary objects of my invention will :cleary appearas the description proceeds.

In the drawings: v

Fig. 1 is a front View of a garment according to the invention inposition onthe body of a wearer, said body being only schematicallyindicated.

Fig. 2 is a rear view of the same garment.

Fig. 3 is a front view of a fragment of the garment illustrating analternate embodiment.

Fig. 4 is a plan View of the various component pieces of the garment,cut but not assembled.

Referring now in detail to the drawings, my improved garment, which inthe preferred embodiment herein illustrated is a slip, comprises a skirtformed of a sector I disposed to the rear and sides and a'front panel 2.The sector I is cut on the straight of the goods, which means that a setof threads runs parallel to its axis of symmetry. Obviously the edges ofthe sector are at an angle to the threads, as plainly illustrated inFig. 3. Thus, when the sector I is draped on the person of the wearer,it can be said that it has some degree of bias in the portions thereofadjoining the front panel 2. The two pieces are joined alongsubstantially vertical seams 3. The front panel 2 is cut on the bias.The top edge thereof is substantially shaped like an inverted V, thesides of which are preferably slightly convex toward the bottom, and isjoined to form the seam 4 with the lower edge, complementarily shaped,of a bias-cut midriff panel 5. The upper edge of the midrifi panel isgenerally parallel to its lower edge but the sides thereof have asomewhat more pronounced convexity to provide a sharper upwardlyextending vertex 6. Said upper edge of the midrifi panel is connectedwith two breast cups I to form an inverted V seam 8. The two breast cupsare also bias-cut and suitably tucked. From the vertex of the midriffpanel, the hem 9 of each breast cup is shaped similarly to an invertedV, to the apex of which there is attached a shoulder strap I8.

The slip is completed by upper back panel II], which is bias-cut. Thelower edge of said panel I is shaped like a very fiat V having sidesconvex towards the top and sharply curved in the vicinity of the apex I'1 thereof. Said edge is joined to a complementarily shaped upper edgeof the sector I to form a seam II. The seam II is joined at both itsends and merges with the seam 4, so that these two seams may be lookedupon as a continuation of one another. Further, the upper back panel I0is joined to the midriff panel to form short substantially verticalseams I2, and to the breast cups I to form short substantially verticalseams I3 and slanted seams M. Substantially vertical seams I2 and I3 arealined with one another and with substantially vertical seams 3. Theupper edge or hem I5 of panel Ill has a shape commonly known as gullwing, having two upwardly pointing apices I6 to which there are attachedthe shoulder straps I8, and a downwardly pointing apex 24 in thevicinity of which said hem I5 is substantially parallel to the portionof the seam II adjacent' the apex of this latter. A gull-wing strip I9may be attached on the inside of the garment to the top of the upperrear panel I0, and stitched thereto along a seam 23. Another piece 22may, if so desired, be attached on the inside of the garment to the topof the front thereof.

The weight of the sector I is applied to the seam II. Part of it istransmitted to the body of the upper back panel Ill and thence to theupper edge I5 thereof. The shape of this upper edge is such that anystresses along it result in vertical pull on the shoulder straps I8.Another portion of the weight of the skirt is transmitted by the seam II to the seam 4, and tends to spread out the inverted V-shaped midriffsection. However the upper apex of said section is joined through thehems 9 of the breast cups to the shoulder straps, and therefore cannotyield. As a result the midriif panel is pressed against the body, thusdividing, shaping and contouring the breasts of the wearer and giving anuplift effect.

The weight of the front panel is applied to the seam 4, and transmittedthrough the midriff panel, and the hems 9 to the shoulder straps,substantially in the manner set forth in the above paragraph, achievingthe same efiect above described.

Circumferential stresses are generated in the following componentpieces: the front panel 2, the midriff panel 5, and the upper back panelII]. The first two will stretch to allow the garment to be put on ortaken off. During actual wear, and as long as the wearer is in astanding position, circumferential stress is predominantly concentratedin the upper back panel Ill. Therefrom it is transmitted to the seamsI2, tending to spread the midriff panel apart, and, as a consequence,pressing said midrifi panel firmly against the body to give thebrassiere effect already explained.

The same general results could be achieved with somewhat differentconstructions, for instance, as shown in Fig. 3, by having a midriffpanel with a vertex 2!) lower than the hems of the breast cups, and thetwo breast cups joined together above said vertex by way of a shortvertical seam 2|. Or a dart could be employed in place of the lastmentioned seam. All that is necessary is that a continuous stitch line,capable of transmitting stresses in a relatively non-elastic manner, runfrom the vertex 6 to each front point of attachment of the shoulderstraps, and said stitch line may comprise seams, reinforcements, darts,hems, or the like, or any combination thereof. Therefore the expressiona continuous stitch line is to be given the construction herein setforth, whenever it occurs in the claims.

Circumferential stress in the upper portion of the upper back panel isdirectly communicated to the breast cups through the seams I3 and I4.The seams I3 bordering the bottom portions of the breast cups tend to bespread apart by said circumferential stress and therefore hold thebottom portions of the breast cups firmly against the body much in thesame way in which the midrifi panel is held. The seams M on the contraryare at a slant, following substantially the lateral contour of thebreasts. Therefore they afford peripheral support to these latter underthe action of circumferential stress. Meanwhile, the shape and tuckingof the breast cups allow freedom and comfort in containing the breasts.

From the above analysis, an important feature of my invention clearlyappears, to wit the manner in which vertical and circumferential loadsare decomposed and guided by the seams of the garment until theycooperate to generate similarly directed stresses, in spite of the factthat originally such loads are at a right angle to each other. Of coursethe same will hold true in the case of any mixed loads that may arise,which can only be combinations of vertical and circumferential loads. Itis to be noted particularly how downward pulls are made to help supportand uplift the breasts, instead of having the contrary effect whichwould naturally be expected of them. Particularly the combination of theseams 4, 8, I2, I3, and I4 serves to guard the breast cups, and divertsand transforms any mechanical action that might tend to be harmful tothem. In the front, where the shaping and form'- fitting action of theslip is most important and most difficult to achieve, a continuousnetwork of seams and hems runs from the bottom of the skirt to theshoulder straps, and prevents any downward pull from being transmittedsubstantially through the body of any piece in the upper part of theslip.

It will also be apparent to a person skilled in the art that thecombination of straight and bias-out pieces in the skirt provides thedesired circumferential elasticity without sagging. The seams of thebias-cut panel 2 with the slightly biased edge portion of thestraight-cut sector I are stable and rip-proof, and inasmuch as thesector I will not sag or ride, neither will the panel 2 so joinedthereto.

While I have described a preferred embodiment of my invention in orderto illustrate the same, I want it understood that I am not to be limitedto the details herein set forth, inasmuch as many changes andmodifications may be made therein as regards the type of garment, aswell .as the style, proportions, and tailoring, and the details ofconstruction'thereof in general, without departing from the spirit ofthe invention or exceeding the scope of the claims.

I claim:

1. In a ladys garment, the combination of a straight-cut rear skirtpanel having upwardly converging side edges, a lower arcuate connectingedge and an upper connecting edge having a centrally located downwardlyextending V depression, a bias out front skirt panel having verticalside edges, a lower arcuate connecting edge and an upper connecting edgehaving a centrally located upwardly extending inverted V projection,said rear and front skirt panels being joined at seams extending alongthe side edges of each thereof to provide an enveloping skirt portionfor the garment, a bias out midriff panel having vertical side edges andshaped'substantially like an inverted V joined at its ,lower edge to theupper edge of the front skirt panel, a front waist portion comprising apair of breast cups, the adjacent lower edges of each of which areshaped substantially'to form a downwardly extending substantiallyV-contoured depression, the respective inner slopes of the lower edgeportions of said breast cups being complementary to the respectiveslopes of the upper edge of the midriff panel and joined thereto atseams extending along the same, a bias cut upper back panel hav-, inga-lower edge complementary to the upper edge of the rear skirt panel andjoined thereto along a seam extending along the same, the lastnamed seambeing connected and merging at each end thereof with an end of the seamjoining the midriff panel to the front skirt panel, said upper backpanel being joined at seams to said midrifi panel along the conjointedges of each thereof, said last-named seams merging and being alignedwith the seams connecting the sides of the front and rear skirt panels,and means for supporting the garment on the wearer.

2. In a ladys garment, the combination of a straight-cut rear skirtpanel having upwardly converging side edges, a lower arcuate connectingedge and an upper connecting edge having a centrally located downwardlyextending V depression, a bias cut front skirt panel having verticalside edges, a lower arcuate connecting edge and an upper connecting edgehaving a centrally located upwardly extending inverted V projection,said rear and front skirt panels being joined at seams extending alongthe side edges of each thereof to provide an enveloping skirt portionfor the garment, a bias out midriff panel having vertical side edges andshaped substantially like an inverted V joined at its lower edge to theupper edge of the front skirt panel, a front waist portion comprising apair of breast cups, the adjacent lower edges of each of which areshaped substantially to form a downwardly extending substantiallyV-contoured depression, the respective inner slopes of the lower edgeportions of said breast cups being complementary to the respectiveslopes of the upper edge of the midrifi panel and joined thereto atseams extending along the same, a bias cut upper back panel having alower edge complementary to the upper edge of the rear skirt panel andjoined thereto along a seam extending along the same, the last-namedseam being connected and merging at each end thereof with an end of theseam joining the midrilf panel to the front skirt panel, said upper backpanel being joined at seams to said midriff panel along the conjointedges of each thereof, said lastnamed seams merging and being alignedwith the seams connecting the sides of the front and rear skirt panels,the upper edge of the upper back panel having a centrally locateddownwardly extending V depression and having wings at its free endextremities sloping downwardly from an apex, said upper back panel wingsbeing complementary to the other lower edge portions of the breast cups,and means for supporting the garment on the wearer.

3. In a ladys garment, the combination of a straight-cut rear skirtpanel having upwardly converging side edges, a lower arcuate connectingedge and an upper connecting edge having a centrally located downwardlyextending V depression, a bias out front skirt panel having verticalside edges, a lower arcuate connecting edge and an upper connecting edgehaving a centrally located upwardly extending inverted V projection,said rear and front skirt panels being joined at seams extending alongthe side edges of each thereof to provide an enveloping skirt portionfor the garment, a bias cut midriff panel having vertical side edges andshaped substantially like an inverted V joined at its lower edge to theupper edge of the front skirt panel, a front waist portion comprising apair of breast cups, the adjacent lower edges of each of which areshaped substantially to form a' downwardly extending substantiallyV-contoured depression, the respective inner slopes of the lower edgeportions of said breast cups being complementary to the respectiveslopes of the upper edge of the midriif panel and joined thereto atseams extending along the same, a bias cut upper back panel having alower edge complementary to the upper edge of the rear skirt panel andjoined thereto along a seam extending along the same, the last-namedseam being connected and merging at each end thereof with'an end of theseam joining the midriff panel to the front skirt panel, said upper backpanel being joined at seams to said midrilf panel along the conjointedges of each thereof, said last-named seams merging and being alignedwith the seams connecting the sides of the front and rear skirt panels,the upper edge of the upper back panel having a pair of apices, eachbreast cup having an apex, and shoulder straps connecting one apex ofthe upper back panel with one apex of a breast cup, and a continuousstitch line joining the upper vertex of said midriff panel to the pointsof attachment of the respective shoulder straps to the breast cups.

4. In a ladys garment, the combination of a straight-cut rear skirtpanel having upwardly converging side edges, a lower arcuate connectingedge and an upper connecting edge having a centrally located downwardlyextending V depression, a bias out front skirt panel having verticalside edges, a lower arcuate connecting edge and an upper connecting edgehaving a centrally located upwardly extending inverted V projection,said rear and front skirt panels being joined at seams extending alongthe side edges of each thereof to provide an enveloping skirt portionfor the garment, breast cups, each having a downwardly sloping inner anda substantially upwardly sloping outer lower edge portion, a bias cutmidrifi panel shaped substantially like an inverted V joined to saidfront skirt panel and the lower inner edge of each breast cup at seamsextending along the conjoint edges of each thereof, a bias cut upperback panel, the lower edge of which is complementary with the upper edgeof the rear skirt panel oined to the same along a,v

seam at the conjoint edges of each thereof and being connected andmerging at each end thereof with an end of the seam joining said midriffpanel to said front panel, said upper back panel being joined to saidmidriff panel at the side edges of each thereof along substantiallyvertical seams aligned with the seams joining the front panel to therear skirt panel, said upper back panel being further joined at a seamalong its sides to a section of each of the lower outer edges of thebreast cups at conjoint edges of each thereof, which seam issubstantially vertical and aligned with one of the seams joining saidupper back panel to said midriff panel and along its upper edge to theremaining section of each of the lower outer edges of the breast cups,said upper back panel having its upper edge shaped to provide twovertices forming the back points of attachment at said shoulder strapsand said breast cups having respectively, at their upper edges, verticesforming the further points of attachment of said shoulder straps, and acontinuous stitch line joining the upper vertex of said midrifl panel toeach of the points of attachment of the shoulder straps to the breastcups and thereby to the rest of the

